How many times have you said to yourself, “some day I’m going to do that?” I know I’ve been guilty of it at least a time or two-hundred since I caught my first Trout with my dad when I was six years old. Fishing big water for big fish in big crowds is a time honored tradition in many of Michigan’s fabled salmon rivers. Just mention Tippy Dam and you’ll probably get a maraud of responses. Some will be positive, some not so positive. Big water? You bet. The Big Manistee below Tippy Dam flows a typical 1200 cubic feet a second (CFS). At 2000 CFS as it was this year, it can be a real challenge to wade. Especially if you consider that the Pigeon River usually runs at about 100 CFS. Big fish? Yes, just look at the pictures. Big crowds? Right again, and sometimes they’re just rude and stupid. (Yes Martha, snagging still exists at Tippy Dam)
I first fished Tippy Dam and the Big Manistee in the early 70’s. At that time, snagging was the preferred and accepted form of fishing for Kings. It was even encouraged by the Michigan DNR. Everyone “just knew” that as soon as the Kings entered the river systems to spawn, they stopped feeding and the only way to catch them was with a heavily weighted treble hook, 40 pound test line and salt water rods and reels. I was one of many among that group. I still have that rod and reel, but the last time I fished with that rig I was aboard a US Navy ship anchored in the Persian Gulf. I keep it as a reminder of lesser times passed.
Although legal, I was always troubled with the snagging technique. It just didn’t seem sporting, it put a lot of trash in the water, i.e. large weighted hooks, long sections of heavy broken fishing line, and many injured fish that broke off during the fight. I once landed a fish that had a snagging hook in its tail. I didn’t snag the fish but rather the 50 plus yards of line attached to that hook that had broken off during an earlier battle the fish had with another fisherman. On the last day of my last trip to Tippy Dam for many years I watched, with great interest, an older gentleman fly fishing for Kings below the dam on a gravel flat across what is now the handicapped pier. In the hour or so that I watched him, he caught, all fair hooked, a number of nice Kings. I also watched with interest as he gently handled the fish prior to releasing it. As he came toward the rock I was sitting on, I asked him if he had a moment to talk about his day’s fishing. He said he would be happy to. I told him I had done some fly-fishing in the past, learning from my uncle on the Indiana lakes. I always enjoyed it. I had read articles in “Field and Stream” and “Outdoor Life” about fly-fishing for Salmon in Scotland and Iceland but always knew I would never be able to afford something like that. And besides “everybody knew” you couldn’t catch a King in Michigan’s rivers on a fly. It just didn’t happen. That day and the conversation we shared changed my fisherman’s mindset forever. It was early in October of 1974. The next spring I entered the first of my many years in the US Navy and it would be 25 years before I would return to Tippy Dam and the Big Manistee River.
During my year’s in the Navy, I spent two years in Iceland and managed three short trips to Scotland. I caught and released my first Salmon on a fly rod on the river Laxa Nordura’ in Iceland. I also spent a couple of years in Washington State both fly fishing and perfecting my noodle rod technique for Salmon and Steelhead. When I left the Navy in 1988, I returned to my “Home Waters” on the Pigeon River fishing for Trout and re-acquainted myself with the Northeastern Indian Trout Association. I used many of the noodle rod techniques for trout and became quite successful at it. But I still yearned for the big fish and the Michigan rivers seemed too far to drive. In 1995 I discovered the South Bend Salmon and Steelhead fishery. In 1997, while serving my first of many years as President of NEITA, I met Joe Geisler at the campgrounds on the Pigeon River. We have been fishing together ever since. In 1999, Joe and I returned to the Big Manistee. It had been 25 years to the month that I had fished at Tippy. Much had changed. Snagging was now illegal. Fish had to be fair hooked in the mouth using flies, bait or lures to be legal. But if you looked closely you could still see some questionable fishing techniques being deployed. This included keeping foul-hooked fish. I didn’t hook a Salmon that weekend, but promised Joe and I would be back next year. The next year was better. I caught a nice Walleye and Smallmouth Bass, but still no big fish. I could catch my share on the Saint Joe in South Bend, but big fish on the Manistee still eluded me.
In 2000, Joe and I decided to switch to fly fishing only and to practice “Catch and Release” on all but a very rare occasion. It was a very positive change. Especially when it came to the big fish. That fall, I went on my first guided float trip with Joe and Ray Schmidt of Schmidt Outfitters in Wellston, Michigan. Ray and his guides know the Big Manistee River like the backs of their hands. I was hooked. We only hooked a couple of fish that day, but it still remains one of our favorite floats. The next time you see Joe, ask him about the fish that tried to take him upstream to the Tippy Dam before it broke off.
In early October of 2001, I went up a day early to scout the river and to wait for Joe and his two business partners to join me that evening. By then I was tying many of my own flies and had purchased a nice 10 weight fly rod for these big tackle busting bruisers. I left the house on a Thursday morning just after midnight and drove all night to Wellston. After having the traditional steak and eggs breakfast at the Kozy Kitchen, (that’s another story in itself) I headed for the parking lot on the south side of Tippy Dam. I rigged up and headed down the 228 steps to the river. That too is another story. It was 8:00 AM and not very crowded as I started site casting to fish that were staging on their “redds.” A few casts later I had my first hook-up. The reel drag screamed as the fish headed down stream. I was deep into my backing when it broke off. I just couldn’t turn the fish. By noon I had hooked over 30 fish, but had only landed one. It was a nice King that weighed 17 pounds. I had another fisherman take a picture for me then quickly released the fish. After loosing so many fish, my fly box was starting to get low. So I decided to break for lunch and replenish my fly box. So “Hi Ho- Hi Ho, back up the 228 steps to my Gimmy and off to lunch I go.” During lunch I couldn’t resist calling Joe and telling him what he was missing. I won’t tell you what he called me but I think you can guess. They were still in Fort Wayne trying to solve a last minute problem at work but would be up that evening, he then called me another name and hung up. I headed back to the river, down the 228 steps and noticed that there was quite a few more fisherman than when I had left. I headed downstream to the gravel flat I had watched that gentleman catch Salmon on a fly over 27 years before. I think I took up where he had left off. Only this time I landed more fish and lost fewer flies than I had earlier in the day. I was getting tired and decided to head for the lodge, get checked in have a couple of cold brews and wait for Joe and his partners. We were staying in the lodges at Schmidt’s Outfitters and scheduled to float with two of Ray’s guides on Friday. Did I mention the 228 steps?
On Friday, the float trip went well and everyone landed fish except Joe. On Saturday, we all went back to the river to wade the gravel flat I had fished two days before. Don’t forget the 228…yea, yea; I know, anyway, the gravel had a good number of fish to cast to. We managed to hook and land a few of them but by mid afternoon it had become too crowed with tackle fisherman to cast flies, so we headed back to the lodge to have a few drinks and to talk about the past couple of days events. The steaks were tender, the single malt scotch smooth and the conversation lively. We decided we would fish until noon on Sunday, and then head back to Fort Wayne. Sunday’s fishing was a repeat of the whole weekend and everyone had a great time and safe trip home.
Every year Joe and I return to the Big Manistee the first weekend of October. This is the peak time for the King Salmon and the beginning of the Steelhead run. Each year’s fishing only gets better. But Saturday and Sunday can become very crowed with all the weekend warriors. We always stay at Schmidt’s and float with one of his guides. Ray runs a world-class establishment. We have floated with the same guide since 2001 and to our guide, John Gouker’s fortune or misfortune depending on your point of view, no one has fallen (or been thrown) out of the boat yet. John is an excellent guide and steam side chef. He’ll put you on plenty of fish and prepare you a shore lunch second to none. As Mickey used to say “try it, you’ll like it.” I can’t recommend hiring a guide for a day enough.
Getting there: Head north. Joe and I have found the fastest way is to take I-69 to Lansing, go west on I-96 to Grand Rapids then north on US 131 to Reed City. Turn west on US 10 to Baldwin (home of the Pere Marquette) and then go north on M37 to M55. Turn left on M55. In a few miles and your in Wellston. Schmidt’s Outfitters is a half block south on Semen’s Road. The Kozy Kitchen is a couple hundred yards further west on M55. Schmidt’s fills up early and gives preference to clients floating with one of his guides. However there are a number of good motels and campgrounds in the area.
In future articles, I’ll share some of my techniques and tackle tips to assist you with your fishing enjoyment and time on the water. I’ll also tell you about a friend’s first ever King Salmon on a fly rod and some of the interesting observations Joe and I have made on our many outings together. I will also take you to some other fishing destinations around Indiana and Michigan for big fish, Trout and Smallmouth Bass.
Bio: Lynn is past president of NEITA and has been pursuing the Trout, and it’s cousins, since 1954 when at the age of six his dad help catch his first Rainbow near his home in Geneva, Indiana.
Lynn with guide John Gouker and a 14-pound Big Manistee King. (Photo by Joe Geisler)
Lynn and a 17 pound King Salmon. This is typical of what can be caught on the Big Manistee in early October. (Photo by Joe Geisler)
Joe Geisler and guide John Gouker with a nice Big Manistee River Coho. (Photo by Lynn Burry)
A typical Big Manistee Crowd at the peak of the King Salmon Run. This is the MDNR boat launch just below Tippy Dam. (Photo by Lynn Burry)
Typical Room at Schmidt’s Outfitters Lodge. (Photo courtesy of Schmidt’s Outfitters.)